A little less guesswork.

Plant fertilisers

Find a product first, then check its exact formulation and calculation status.

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Aquarium Co-Op

Easy Green

Aquarium Co-Op Easy Green — current mL-based directions

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Seachem

Seachem Flourish

Flourish comprehensive supplement — not Excel or a separate macro supplement

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Seachem

Seachem Flourish Excel

Flourish Excel liquid — select initial or ongoing use

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NilocG

NilocG ThriveS

NilocG ThriveS shrimp-specific liquid — current measuring-cap directions

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2Hr Aquarist

APT 3 (Complete)

2Hr Aquarist APT 3 / Complete — current standard daily directions

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Tropica

Tropica Specialised

Tropica Specialised Nutrition — liquid fertiliser

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Tropica

Tropica Premium

Tropica Premium Nutrition — liquid fertiliser

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API

API Leaf Zone

API Leaf Zone liquid — freshwater label — US label directions

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Jump to a section
  1. Category guidance
  2. Macros vs. Micros
  3. Supported Products
  4. Fertilizer Comparison Guides
  5. The Ultimate Guide to Aquarium Plant Fertilization
  6. Common Dosing Mistakes

Category guidance

Earlier category notes are preserved below and await a full source review. Only the source-checked entries above can return a dose.

Aquatic plants require a balance of Macro and Micro nutrients to thrive. Without proper fertilization, plants may suffer from yellowing leaves, holes, or stunted growth.

Macros vs. Micros

Macros: Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K) are needed in larger quantities. These are often produced by fish waste but may need supplementation in heavily planted tanks.

Micros: Iron, Manganese, and other trace elements are needed in tiny amounts but are vital for color and health.

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Supported Products

Fertilizer Comparison Guides

Choosing between the industry's top brands? Explore our expert "Head-to-Head" breakdowns to find the perfect formula for your specific scaping philosophy.

Flourish vs. Easy Green → Flourish vs. NilocG Thrive → Flourish vs. APT 3 Complete → Flourish vs. API Leaf Zone → Flourish vs. Flourish Excel → Flourish vs. Tropica Specialised →

The Ultimate Guide to Aquarium Plant Fertilization

If you've ever looked at a high-tech "aquascape" and wondered how they get that deep, vibrant neon green (or that stunning blood red), the answer is almost always a precise fertilization schedule. While fish waste provides some nutrients, it's rarely enough—and rarely in the right balance—to sustain a lush underwater garden.

Why Do We Actually Need to Fertilize?

In nature, plants have access to a constant flow of fresh water and a deep, nutrient-rich soil bed that has been building for centuries. In our glass boxes, we have a limited supply of everything. Once your plants consume the available iron or potassium in the water, they stop growing. This is when algae usually takes over—it's an opportunist that thrives when your plants are weak.

Liquid vs. Root Tabs: Which is Better?

This is a common point of confusion. The answer depends entirely on the type of plants you have:

  • Column Feeders: Plants like Java Fern, Anubias, Mosses, and most floating plants take their nutrients directly from the water through their leaves. They require liquid fertilizers.
  • Root Feeders: Heavy hitters like Amazon Swords, Crypts, and Vallisneria have massive root systems. They primarily eat from the substrate. While they can take some from the water, they will truly explode in growth if you use Root Tabs tucked into the sand or gravel near their base.

Lean vs. EI Dosing: Finding Your Strategy

There are two main schools of thought when it comes to liquid dosing:

  • Estimative Index (EI): This is the "Buffet" approach. You add an excess of nutrients so the plants never run out, then you do a large (50%) water change every week to "reset" the levels. It's great for high-growth tanks but requires strict maintenance.
  • Lean Dosing: This is the "Snack" approach. You add just enough for the plants to survive and stay healthy, but not so much that you risk massive algae blooms if you miss a water change. This is often better for low-tech or beginner tanks.

The Danger of "Blind" Dosing

The biggest danger with fertilizers is accumulation. If you dose a complete fert every day but only do a water change once a month, certain elements (like copper or heavy metals) can build up to toxic levels for shrimp and sensitive fish. This is why we always recommend testing your Nitrates and Phosphates monthly to make sure your dosing is in line with what your plants are actually consuming.

Pro Tip: The "Pearling" Indicator

If your plants are releasing visible bubbles of oxygen (pearling) a few hours after the lights turn on, your fertilization and lighting are likely in perfect balance. If they look pale or have holes (pinholes are often a sign of potassium deficiency), it's time to check your dosage calculator!

Common Dosing Mistakes

Mistake #1: Overdosing to "Fix" Algae.

Algae is usually caused by an imbalance, not just high nutrients. Adding more fertilizer when you have algae often makes the problem worse unless you also address lighting and CO2.

Mistake #2: Ignoring Liquid Carbon.

Products like Seachem Excel are not fertilizers; they are carbon sources/algaecides. They should complement, not replace, your nutrient dosing.

Ready to feed your plants?

Use our precision calculator to find the exact dose for your tank's net volume.

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Written by Richard James

Aquarist, author, and creator of ShrimpKeeper.co.uk. Helping hobbyists achieve professional results through precision dosing.

View My YouTube Channel & Books →